Tides and waves

Tides are the periodic rise and fall of sea levels caused by the gravitational forces of the Moon and the Sun, along with Earth's rotation.
The Moon plays a more significant role in causing tides than the Sun due to its proximity to Earth.
High tide occurs when the water level rises to its highest point.
Low tide occurs when the water level falls to its lowest point.
The interval between two high tides or two low tides is approximately 12 hours and 25 minutes.
Spring tides occur during the full moon and new moon when the Sun, Moon, and Earth are aligned, resulting in higher high tides and lower low tides.
Neap tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon when the Sun, Moon, and Earth form a right angle, leading to lower high tides and higher low tides.
Tides are classified into semidiurnal (two high and two low tides per day), diurnal (one high and one low tide per day), and mixed tides (a combination of semidiurnal and diurnal patterns).
Tidal movements are influenced by factors like the shape of coastlines, depth of the ocean, and geographic location.
Tidal currents refer to the horizontal flow of water associated with the rise and fall of tides.
Flood tide occurs when the water level rises, and ebb tide occurs when it recedes.
Waves are oscillations of the sea surface caused by the wind, seismic activity, or other forces.
The key parts of a wave include the crest (highest point) and trough (lowest point).
Wave height is the vertical distance between the crest and the trough.
Wave length is the horizontal distance between two consecutive crests or troughs.
Wave period is the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a fixed point.
Wind is the primary factor influencing wave formation, with stronger winds generating larger waves.
Seismic waves, or tsunamis, are caused by underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides.
Tsunamis are characterized by their long wavelengths and can travel across oceans at high speeds.
Waves can be classified into constructive waves, which add material to the coast, and destructive waves, which erode it.
Waves transport energy across the ocean surface but do not result in significant movement of water.
The fetch, or the distance over which wind blows uninterrupted, influences wave size.
Breaking waves occur when waves approach shallow water, causing them to lose stability and collapse.
Rip currents are strong, localized currents that flow away from the shore, posing risks to swimmers.
Tides and waves play a critical role in shaping coastal landforms like beaches, cliffs, and deltas.
The movement of tides aids in navigation, fishing, and the generation of tidal energy.
Tidal energy is a renewable energy source harnessed using tidal barrages and turbines.
Tides contribute to the flushing of estuaries, maintaining their ecosystem balance.
Storm surges are caused by high winds and low atmospheric pressure, resulting in elevated sea levels during storms.
Understanding tides is crucial for port operations, as they affect shipping and docking activities.
Standing waves, or seiches, occur in enclosed or semi-enclosed basins, caused by resonance effects.
The Bay of Fundy in Canada experiences the world's highest tides, with variations of over 16 meters.
Ocean waves transfer energy from the atmosphere to the sea surface, influencing ocean circulation.
Wave action facilitates the mixing of surface and deep ocean layers, affecting marine nutrient distribution.
The study of tides and waves is essential for managing coastal erosion and designing protective structures.
Wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection determine the behavior of waves near coastlines.
Waves play a role in the formation of longshore currents, which transport sediment along the coast.
Understanding tides and waves helps in predicting and mitigating the impacts of tsunamis and storm surges.
Scientists use tide gauges and satellites to monitor sea level changes and wave patterns.
Tides influence the life cycles of many marine species, including those inhabiting intertidal zones.
Wave energy is an emerging source of renewable power, with devices designed to harness wave motion.
Knowledge of tides and waves is integral to understanding Earth's dynamic ocean systems.